Interviews

Much of India's textile waste is too mixed or contaminated to resell, reuse or recycle. Asha Singhal, Director, Nature of Fashion at The Biomimicry Institute, explains what the fourth Nature of Fashion pilot will target, what India can take from earlier work in Ghana, the Netherlands and Germany, and why local conditions must shape the technologies tested.

India generates an estimated 7.8 million tonnes of textile waste a year, and much of the low-value, mixed or contaminated fraction has no commercially viable end-of-life pathway. Shruti Goel, Chief Executive Officer of Upaya Social Ventures, explains how a new accelerator run with The Biomimicry Institute will support decomposition enterprises while tying their growth to dignified, verifiable employment.

Wellness claims in apparel can drift from what a fabric contains to what it supposedly does for the wearer, and the evidence needed rises in between. Vamsi Sivalanka, Founder and Executive Director, and Akhilesh Karni, Co-Founder and CFO, of NITISI Limited, set out how they separate material, biological and wearer-level evidence, and why sustainability verification cannot substitute for technical proof.

Growing commercial interest in traditional techniques has turned handmade irregularity into a marketable quality, yet the labour and knowledge behind it often go unexamined. Sayali Goyal, a textile visual artist, discusses natural dyes, mechanisation and the line between inspiration and extraction, and why communities should have a say in how their knowledge is represented and sold.

Lower fossil-carbon content is increasingly presented as proof of sustainability, though a single percentage can obscure emissions, water use, durability and end-of-life outcomes. Kiki Chen, Global Marketing Communications Manager, Sorona Apparel at Covation Biomaterials, argues for clearer distinctions between feedstock, polymer and finished-product content, independent certification and fuller lifecycle disclosure before bio-based performance materials are judged.

Seamless construction has given Indian intimatewear a new vocabulary of comfort, softness and stretch, yet the manufacturing economics behind it remain demanding. Pankaj Kabutarwala, Founder and Owner of Piccion, a venture of Pigeon Industries, argues that advanced Italian machinery matters far less than four decades of accumulated knowledge in yarns, dyeing and integrated garment production.

Sustainability credentials and AI capabilities are increasingly shaping how textile buyers evaluate suppliers, yet the gap between exhibition-floor claims and commercial application remains significant. Intertextile Shenzhen 2026 drew over 20,000 visits from 74 countries and regions. Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, assesses which innovations translated into tangible business outcomes and where the industry's direction is shifting.

Sustainability efforts in fashion have largely focused on optimising an existing linear model: cleaner dyes, better sorting, more efficient factories. Asha Singhal, Director, Nature of Fashion at the Biomimicry Institute, argues this approach overlooked a structural absence rather than a technical shortfall. Pilots run by the programme in the Netherlands, Germany and Ghana tested whether biological decomposition could process textile waste current recycling infrastructure cannot.

Clients who built relationships with personal stylists have started asking a question consumer resale apps cannot answer: what happens to clothing once it leaves the wardrobe. Stéphanie Crespin, Founder and Chief Executive of Reflaunt, has answered with Folio, a private resale system that lets stylists manage client wardrobes, earn commission and protect discretion others did not offer.

Premium retail in India is no longer defined by a narrow set of traditional luxury buyers, as a younger, more globally connected consumer base reshapes demand across categories. Pushpa Bector, Group Executive Director, DLF Retail and Whole-time Director, DCCDL, discusses how this expanding aspiration is reshaping leasing strategy, brand curation and the long-term positioning of premium retail destinations.